SPSHolic's Blog

The Crosshatch Triggerfish

(spsholic) — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 11:46:55 +0900

You can see the original post in marinedepot blog
http://blog.marinedepot.com/2008/06/crosshatch-triggerfish-xanthichthys.html

I want you to introduce the crosshatch triggerfish because I love this fish. I want to keep male and female someday.

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

The Crosshatch Triggerfish (Xanthichthys mento)

Progressive experimentation has been conducted by many hobbyists and professionals as to which fish can be compatible with one another in a “Reef Aquarium”.

One fish that continues to have the so called “jaw dropping effects” on new and old hobbyist is the crosshatch triggerfish (Xanthi chthys mento). Based upon the knowledge available, its natural habitat and feeding behavior, renders this particular suspect to be a well rounded tank mate in our home aquariums; potentially ignore most sessile invertebrates.

The main reason I haven’t tried one until recently is because unfortunately I have not been able to afford one let alone find one that was under 7-10 inches.

Adult crosshatch triggers in the wild can reach 12-14 inches in length, and most of the crosshatch’s which I have seen for sale has been in the 7-11 inch size range. In my experience choosing an adequately sized specimen for any given aquaria is crucial for the health and prosperity of any specimen.

As hobbyist, we need make cautious decisions when choosing fish, always considering the longevity and health of any given specie along with their potential tank mates, when choosing our livestock.

The short term stress effects of transportation and quarantining are no where near as stressful to livestock, when compared to placing them in an undersized aquarium.

The key is to recreate a habitat to suit the specific breed of species which you desire. Adult fish in general, more often than not, have a small window of feeding preferences, due to the adaptation and behavioral conditioning while thriving in the wild.

These influencial factors can cause many species to be more territorial and increasingly wary compared to juvenile fish, which makes it sometimes more difficult to introduce adult fish into an existing community.

The biggest variable of course is the size of the aquaria.

All trigger fish belong to the order Tetraodontiformes, which from my understanding includes the closely related file fish, puffer f ish and boxfish.

Triggers are members of the family Balistidae. The common name “trigger” comes from a unique characteristic of the first dorsal spine.

It can be “locked rapidly like the trigger of a gun” into an erect position and held in place by the second dorsal spine further providing stability and strength to prevent removal from within the reef or surrounding shelters. At the first sign of danger, trigger fish bolt for the nearest reef crevice and rock structures and “trigger” their built-in locking mechanism.

After engagement, they’re practically impossible to remove. Personally I have also seen trigger fish use this as an aggression tactic, to appear larger and more dominate than its rival. No other specie, has the “fight or flight” syndrome been more pronounced, and this sight is truly a spectacular sight to see; excuse me if my Reef Geekness shows throughout this article.

Trigger fish are characterized by their rigid leathery skin and masculine jaws that contain razor-like teeth. The jaw muscles which underline the mouth structure are well equipped to remove flesh if necessary, however when choosing you potential new Trigger tank mate, the location of the mouth is a good indication that evolution has geared this specific breed of beauties to feast on plankton.

In general they are considered forced inductive respirators; which means that they use the force of flow in the ocean in order to provide their gills with plenty of respiration. Keep in mind that if your tank is lacking in flow, this may also be a good idea to either upgrade your system flow or option for a specie which is suitable for your biotope.

During relaxation and “grazing” they use a waving effect with their soft dorsal and anal fins.

This swimming motion allows them to swim backwards as well as forward, which allows them to be very versatile and agile when swimming throughout the reefs.

These fish actually make great pets, are disease-resistant, friendly, resilient and easy to feed ... these are a few reasons why they are considered a great specimen for advanced hobbyist. Crosshatches are charismatic and curious, which even makes them more pleasurable to keep in large aquariums, these particular breed of species normally do better in tanks larger than 300 gallons.

The crosshatch trigger has the typical triangular shape of trigger fish when its fins are erect.

Similar to other members of the genus Xanthichthys, crosshatch triggers are sexually dichromatic. The male has a more intense yellow background color on the body and wears with pride a red-trimmed tail “this is the more favored of the sexes", as opposed to the female, which has a yellow-fringed caudal fin.

They are easily distinguished. Both sexes have vibrant blue radiating lines on the face and black lines that criss-cross along the body, hence the name “cross-hatch.”

You will normally find most crosshatches being sold in pairs these days, as they normally have a higher rate of survival in pairs.

Crosshatch trigger fish can be found thriving throughout the tropical and sub-tropical Eastern and Western Pacific Oceans but generally prefer smaller isolated oceanic islands such as Hawaii. They can be found in large schools in open water, usually at depths of 70 feet and greater. They feed exclusively on passing zooplankton.

These conditions can have a dramatic impact on the cost of this particular breed, due to the depths at which they are normally found.

The nature of their relative rarity and expensive cost in the aquarium trade is completely understandable, I’ve done free diving at roughly 25 feet and that was a task in itself, I cant even fathom what diving at 70-90 feet would be like to capture one or two of these gems.

I actually got the pleasure of meeting an experienced crosshatch diver, stories which one could only imagine, it really put in perspective why these illusive creatures have such a high price tag. Excuse me if I’m wrong but I really don’t find diving at 70-90 feet in depth in order to capture a few fish fun, no matter what fish is on the agenda.

Currents and temperatures at these depths can really be unpredictable especially on the western front of Hawaii. Crosshatches can be kept singly, in pairs, or in groups of one male and two or more females in the aquarium. Most hobbyist and professionals recommend that two males in anything but the largest of aquariums, is setting oneself up for disaster. Just like mid-water planktivores, crosshatch triggers are not picky eaters and will consume most aquarium fare.

The diet should consist of predominantly meaty seafood’s, such as chopped krill, squid, plankton, silver sides, and mysis shrimp. Chopped krill is a particularly good food item because it provides beneficial carotenoids that help maintain the bright pigmentation in these fish. A good enrichment to a well rounded diet would be Selcon and Garlic, as it will provide your new tank mate with the essential highly unsaturated OMEGA 3 fatty acids, Marine Lipids, Stabilized Vitamin C and Vitamin B12 Cyanocobalamin.

Like other reef fish that feed from the water column and open ocean, crosshatch triggers should be fed a few times a day in order to stabilize body weight. If a fish develops a pinched abdomen “stomach”, it’s not getting enough food. If and when starvation reaches the dorsal musculature, it’s usually too late for the fish to recover.

The upper cut mouth, elongated jaw, and eyes pinched up at the forefront of its head; give a further clue as to the open-water feeding habits of the crosshatch trigger fish.

With profound anatomy which this fish possesses, makes feeding on invertebrates and bottom dwelling species difficult for this particular fish to feed on. For these reasons many hobbyist believe that this fish is good tank mate and interesting addition to any large coral reef aquarium. So if you’re looking for a new mystical addition to your large reef tank, and your looking for a fish that not only has style but has a great amount of character, then a crosshatch trigger fish is perfect for you. I hope this information helps you in choosing your next trigger fish.

Until next time, happy reefing.

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zevoit new product

(spsholic) — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 11:11:48 +0900

Available on 1.November the new Products:
Neue Produkte ab 1 November:

ZEOzym - Power for Reeftanks

Jod Komplex Konzentrat - next step

Aminos for Fish -

Fisch Immunstabil -

http://www.zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?p=143114

http://www.zeovit.com/forums/showpost.php?p=143126&postcount=2

Hi Fay, I've not used it, but it's enzymes that's a dry product & according to Alexander one of the first things one notices is how clean the sand becomes. It ramps up the zeo-biology tremendously, with a marked overall appearance of the reef. Coral growth & p-e get a boost. Release date according to Thomas is ~Nov.1st. Bob

KZ에서 나오는 zeovit 물품은 항상 나를 기대하게 만든다. 참신하고 그만큼 결과도 좋은 것 같다. 11월에 나오는 제품들은 벌써 기대가 된다. 빨리 구입해서 결과를 직접 확인해봤으면 좋겠다.

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frogspawn progress

(spsholic) — Sat, 04 Oct 2008 08:50:48 +0900

2008/10/01
I Received this coral to my club member 빨강토토. At first this color is almost green fluorescence like there is no zoox in this. But after come to my tank, it becomes normal frogspawn color. I do not know it is better result or not. (unfortunately I do not have that pic) But the growth is definately better at that time. almost more than fifth.

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Hitch Hiker (Seriatopora Hystrix )

(spsholic) — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 13:24:01 +0900

Finally I found the Name~!! Seriatopora Hystrix (Yellow Green BirdNest)
Thanks Espen...

Update 2008/10/01

Still growing but do not know it is birdnest or not. Its color is also not pink.
just green. but this is beautiful pieces.

What do you think about this?

----------------------------------------------------------------------
2008/07/28

Sometimes hitchhikers visits to our tank. some are very evil like aiptasia, flatworm. some are good like this..

I do not know where it is...but I think I am lucky..

Do you think what it is? BirdNest? (The right one is my one of frag) I think its seed are attatched my coralline algea and It starts to grow very fast. (You can find the growth.)

어느 산호에서 함께 온 것인지는 모르겠지만 산호와 함께 온 bird nest이다.

(그렇게 생각하고 있다.) 정말 손톱만큼 작은 녀석이었는데 그 큰 산호들 사이에서

꿋꿋하게 자라고 있었다. 코랄라인알게를 base로 퍼지기 시작했는데 굉장히 빠르게

성장하고 있다.)

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Declivis Back

(spsholic) — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 12:24:38 +0900

Update 2008/10/01

This my declivis butterfly pic taken yesterday.
She (I think it is female) eats every kind of dry and frozen food. but Unfortunately she pick all my SPS. but I think it is very natural for her. so I let her do this. :)

Not sure but LFS said tinker's butterfly will come soon. so I am thinking of buying it if possible.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I lost my declivis butterfly about 5 month ago.

http://www.reef-mania.com/entry/Declivis-and-my-baby

And I am waiting for new ones and I can get devlivis again.

This picture show the procedure of acclimation and LFS said they have done already~!
so what I only do is add my water and enought aeration. (the weather is so hot though evening)

After 2 hour acclimation, I put them in my tank.

LFS said it is not pair because it was not caught together. but he said they may become pair or not. and they would not fight each other until dead. it is like selecting large angel in coral tank. They can pick the coral or not :)
They are almost 2.5 inches (6~7cm). It is not big.
I hope they get along with each other and enjoy their life~!!

5개월전에 declivis 나비를 아쉽게 잃고 난 후에 계속 기다리고 있다가 6센티정도의
작은 녀석들을 구할 수 있었습니다. 보니까 적응통에서 이젠 좀 살만한지 견제를
시작합니다. 수족관에서 말하길 마치 엔젤들이 산호를 쪼을 수도 있고 그렇지 않을
수도 있는 것처럼 처음에는 견제하다가 같이 다닐수도 있고 처음에는 신경을 쓰지
않다가 나중에 견제하기도 한답니다. 하지만 죽을 때까지 싸우지는 않는다고 하네요
그래서 일단 2마리를 한번에 넣어보기로 했습니다. 어찌 되었던 우리 식구가 된 이상 잘 살아주었으면 하는 바램입니다.

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A.Valida Process

(spsholic) — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 22:26:35 +0900

Update (2008/10/01)

The growth is very satisfied...

The color is a little intense and I think it is because of potassium and iodide but also not satisfied...Is it limitation of T5? Should I change the MH?

-------------------------------------------------
Update (2008/08/02)

The color is not satisfied...unfortunately..

Update (2008/04/25)

Valida still growing. I moved upper place than before so Its color got ligther. So I will change the position soon

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Update (2007/03/01)
Valida started growing without problem, and the color is improved..This picture is part of it...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Update (2007/12/31)
Finally I found the reason of tip recession.. After solving it, my valida is growing again...It is super amazing and its survival capacity
is absolutely stunning though most of body remains almost skeleton...

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

대부분의 산호가 죽었지만 나는 그 이유를 알 수가 없었다 어항의 대부분의 것을 바꾸었지만 이유를 알 수 없이 산호가 죽어가던 시절이 있었다. tip recession이 진행되면서 거의 여전히 원인을 찾지 못하다가 어느 순간부터 산호가 제 상태를 유지하기 시작했다. 그 때 내가 한 일이라고는 칼슘리액터를 바꾼 것과 트로픽 마린 프로 소금을 그로텍으로 바꾼 것이었다. 개인적으로는 소금이 그 때 문제였다고 생각한다.
(소금은 굳이 그로텍이 아니라도 되었다. 트로픽 마린 프로만 아니라면..그래서 나는 더이상TMP를 쓰지 않는다)

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Octopus- Damage

(spsholic) — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 22:14:31 +0900

Update 2008/10/01

My Octopus is growing well and even attack the SPS.

---------------------------------------------------------------------
2007/02/21

My corals were damaged including SPS, LPS because of bad batch of salt.
My Octopus are almost dead. I am not sure I can save it or not.

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Mag Float met Easy Blade

(spsholic) — Sun, 21 Sep 2008 21:27:11 +0900

Mag Float met Easy Blade

Mag Float에 Easy blade를 연결하여 보았습니다. 아주 쉽습니다. 그냥 순간접착제로 붙이면 됩니다. :)

Easy Blade로는 algae free 제품 자석닦게(피라냐. 해머해드,타이거샤크) 맥플로트 대자가 설치 가능합니다.

http://www.algaefree.com/easy_blade.html

가격도 그렇게 비싸지 않습니다.

저희집에는 이런 이끼가 많이 낍니다. 이 이끼는 주로 모서리나 구석진 곳등 수류가 좀 적은 곳에 잘 생기는데 예전 오래된 자석닦이로는 도저히 제거가 안되더군요.

이번에 맥플로트를 사면서 그냥 일반 다이애텀등 없애기 쉬운 것 용으로 산 자크노표입니다. 품질이 많이 떨어집니다. 잘 붙지도 않고 위의 사진과 같은 이끼도 없애기 어렵습니다. 그냥 어항에 붙여두고 쉬운 녀석들만 제거할 생각입니다.

이지블레이드를 붙이지 않은 상태에서 맥플로트를 가지고 이끼를 제거해 보았습니다. 모서리등의 이끼가 몇번해 보니 없어지네요. 나름 좋습니다. 그러나 유리와 바닥이 만나는 부분이라든지 이런 곳은 역시나 쉽지가 않습니다.
이지 블레이드를 붙인 후에 없앤 이끼의 모습입니다. 기존처럼 손을 물속에 넣을 필요가 없습니다. 구석진 곳도 아주 쉽게 제거가 됩니다. 두껍지 않은 코랄라인도 쉽게 제거됩니다.

다만 주의할 점은 해머해드같이 자성이 강하지 않아서 원하는 방향으로 움직이지 않을 수도 있습니다. 천천히 제거를 해주면 될 것 같습니다. 특히 모서리에 실리콘등은 조심해야 합니다.

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Tunze transformer for 6100, 6000 (댓글 0개 / 트랙백 0개) 2008/03/01
Mag Float met Easy Blade (댓글 2개 / 트랙백 0개) 2008/09/21
Vortech_?? (댓글 0개 / 트랙백 0개) 2007/01/26

DIY frag station

(spsholic) — Sun, 21 Sep 2008 21:25:31 +0900

아주 간단한 DIY frag station입니다.

오랫동안 쓰던 자석닦이를 바꾸면서 기존의 것을 활용했습니다.

어항 내부에 있는 이끼 제거 부분을 없애고, 그 위에 순간접착제로 그냥 붙인 것입니다.

그렇게 지저분해 보이지도 않고 수류와 조명에 따라 자리도 쉽게 바꿀 수가 있어서 좋은 것 같습니다.

일단 너무 자라서 다른 산호를 괴롭히는 녀석들을 좀 없애고 프랙 교환용으로 A.florida를 2개 frag로 만들었습니다.

자를 것은 더 많은 데 frag plug가 없습니다. 적응 되면 프랙만 사진 한 번 찍어보겠습니다.

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SPS Coloration

(spsholic) — Tue, 02 Sep 2008 21:35:05 +0900

I found very interesting post in RC about SPS coloration

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RC에서 글 보다가 공감이 가는 글이라 퍼왔습니다.
한 번 보시고 의견 나눠 보시죠...
저는 노란색 SPS가 없는데 이거 구해봐야겠습니다. ^^ 노란색이 기본이네요..

Please note: I am assuming that you meet the minimum suggested standards to keeping SPS; strong lighting, calcium at the appropriate levels, strong skimming and live rock.

Yellows

Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of you baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else.
==> 노란색은 질산염과 인산염에 대한 의존도가 높습니다. 그래서 노란색을 통해 현재 어항의 질산염과 인산염의 상태를 파악할 수 있습니다. 노란색 아크로포라로 시작하는 것이 좋고 몇달동안 잘 키운다면 다른 것들도 키울 수 있습니다.

Greens

Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered).

Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. You'll notice a deficiancy if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 usg twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, Algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it wont be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow).

Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is Algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly.
==> 녹색은 그다음으로 쉬운 개체입니다. 대부분의 녹색은 철성분을 추가하면서 좋아질 수 있지만 이끼를 늘릴수도 있습니다. 만약에 녹색이 갈색으로 바뀌거나 색이 빠지면 철성분을 50갤런에 한방울씩 주는데 많이 줄 경우에 이끼가 늘어나거나 노란색 아크로가 녹색을 띄게 됩니다. (여기서도 노란색 아크로의 역할이 크네요)

Blues and some purples

This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugol뭩 solution, ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; don뭪 just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less intense. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer.
==> 푸른색이나 보라계열의 일부 개체는 PI concentrate나 루골용액을 통해서 색이 향상 됩니다. (KZ제품중에 PIF가 있습니다.ESV에서도 나오나 보네요) 이 potassium Iodide는 potassium이랑 성분이 좀 다른 것이니 주의하세요. ^^ 색이 빠졌을 때 넣어주면 좋습니다.

Reds/Pinks and some Purples

Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much.

For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency is when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so don뭪 mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps.
==>분홍과 붉은 계통은 보통 몬티나 포실리,버드네스트, 스타일로포라, 세리아토포라같은 개체에 많은데 potassium을 줍니다. (kz사의 k-balance) 몬티의 성장속도가 더뎌진다던지 색이 빠지는 경우라면 이 원소를 투여해주면 좋습니다. 분홍색이 갈색으로 변한다거나 tissue가 없어지면서 바디에 하얀 점처럼 보이는 것도 포타시움이 부족한 때입니다. 너무 과하면 팁이 타들어가는 tip recession이 생길 수 있습니다.

Purples

Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables.

First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity.

From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in another뭩 tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip.

Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K).

Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.

These are just my observations through testing and I am sure in the future other factors will be seen and added. Please feel free to comment with your own observations, data is very important to moving forward.

==> 보라색이 가장 어렵습니다. 물의 안정화되고 깨끗해야 하는데 스폰지가 필터 역할을 해주므로 kz의 sp를 써서 스폰지를 키우는 것도 좋습니다. 하지만 깨끗한 물은 팁색은 좋게 해도 전체색을 만들어 주기에는 좀 한계가 있습니다. 보라색의 경우 액티닉을 좋아하므로 20K의 메탈이나 많은 액티닉 등을 사용하는 것도 좋습니다. 아이오다이드나 포타시움도 도움이 됩니다. 그 전에 반드시 노란색과 녹색의 아크로포라의 상태도 확인해 보세요.

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